Translation of TT 1/8 Brushless settings

SUMMARY Introduction 2 The categories on the setup 2 page Customize car (Car personalization) 2 Build car (Car parts) 2 Car setup (Car adjustment) 3 Chassis (frame) 4 Driveline (transmission) 8 Electrics (Electricity) 10 Shocks & ARB (Shock absorbers and anti-roll bar) 12 Suspension (Suspension) 15 Introduction In this section, I'll translate all the 1/8 scale RC off-road settings provided by VRC PRO. Since they're in English, I'll do my best to translate them into French, organized by category. If you'd like more detailed information on the settings, feel free to visit the settings section of the website. We will start with the 1/8 Brushless All Terrain Modified category. To begin and access your car's tuning options, simply click on your vehicle on the game's home page. You should access this page with 3 settings categories: The categories on the setup page Customize car (Car personalization) This category allows you to personalize your car; the choice is yours: • Body paint scheme: The colors of your bodywork • Body decals: Stickers on the bodywork • Wheels color: the color of your rims • Wing decals: The wing stickers • Wing color: The color of your fin Build car (Car parts) This category allows you to choose components for your car such as: • Chassis: the choice of chassis and therefore of category • Motor: The motor power (1450kv being the standard category called SPEC, 1900kv, 2050kv and 2650kv being the Modified category). I generally use 1900 or 2050kv. • Speed ​​controller: The choice of speed controller (in 1/8TT only one speed controller is available, unlike other categories which offer several) • Battery: The choice of battery affects battery life • Wheels and tires: The choice of rims, these come from different brands and characteristics (HR = high response = high response of the car during acceleration or braking in the air during a jump, MR = Medium response = medium response, LR = light response = light response) • Body: Choosing the bodywork • Tire compound: The choice of tire brand, tread pattern, and rubber compound hardness. I like the AK Gridiron in soft compound. • Transponder: The MyLaps counting chip • Rear wing: The choice of wing and the type of downforce (H=High downforce, M=Medium downforce, Low=Low downforce) Car setup (Car tuning) We're getting to the heart of the matter with substantial content; this category includes: Chassis, Driveline, Electrics, Setup sheet, Shocks and ARB, Suspension To make things easier to understand, the Setup sheet includes all the categories: Chassis, Driveline, Electrics, Shocks and ARB, and Suspension. You can adjust everything in the Setup sheet without having to navigate between categories; however, each category contains an explanation in English of the different settings, as well as diagrams. I will therefore translate all the categories: Chassis Driveline Electrics Shocks and ARB Suspension Chassis (frame) I will translate the chassis page as best I can, starting with the top line with REAR and FRONT, which indicates the rear of the chassis (REAR) and the front of the chassis (FRONT). For the rear and the front you find 3 values: Ride height, Camber rear, Lower arm (we will see the definitions of these later on other settings) Ride height: This is simply the distance between the ground and the chassis height. It can be influenced by spring settings, for example, or other parameters. Camber: Camber is the angle formed by the wheels relative to the ground (this adjustment is made in the suspension section) Lower arm: angle of the lower triangles relative to the chassis axis Steering: Steering lock: Increasing the steering angle will reduce the car's turning radius and make it more responsive to steering inputs. For tight circuits, increase the steering angle. For faster, flowing circuits, you can reduce the steering angle. Remember that your car is losing speed while turning, so you should really use the smallest steering angle allowed by the track. Bumsteer washers: Bumpsteer is the change in camber that occurs when the suspension moves up and down. In an ideal situation, the camber angle doesn't change at all. However, since the suspension can be adjusted, such as by changing the length of the control arms, camber, etc., it's impossible to keep bumpsteer close to zero in all situations. Bumpsteer affects steering and can sometimes be used to your advantage to create more steering input on the inside wheel. Bumpsteer works closely with the Ackermann sway bar. Too much bumpsteer makes the car harder to control in a straight line. Adding washers raises the inside pivot point of the tie rod and changes the amount of bumpsteer. Akermann: Ackermann's principle relates to the difference in steering angle between the inside and outside wheels. To take a turn with a certain radius, the outside wheel must have a steering angle slightly smaller than that of the inside wheel; otherwise, the tires will start to rub (scrubbing: influencing differences in rotational speed). The Ackermann effect also changes with the movement of the suspension. The Ackermann geometry is determined by the points where the tie rods connect to the steering arms (attached to the steering knuckle) and to the center of the car (on the Ackermann sway bar), as well as the distance between the steering arms. Because of this geometry, you'll notice that the inside wheel will begin to turn more and more as the steering angle increases. By changing the position of the ball joint on the steering arms (attached to the steering knuckle), you can alter the degree of Ackermann's effect. Moving the ball joint rearward results in more responsive steering and greater cornering response. Moving the ball joint forward results in greater steering response both in and out of corners, but less responsive steering with reduced steering response. Toe and anti-squat: (Toe = Toe-in/toe-out (front wheel) and anti-dive (rear axle)) Front Tie-Rod Length Toe in (toe-in) / Toe out (toe-out): Depending on the length of the front steering tie rods, the angle of The front wheel toe-in angle can be adjusted. Increasing the length of the tie rods increases the toe-in angle, while shortening them does the opposite (toe-out). The front toe-in angle affects the car's steering and stability. Increasing the front wheel toe-in will improve stability, making the car easier to drive, but you will lose steering responsiveness and the turning radius will increase. The further you deviate from a 0-degree angle, the more drag your car will experience, thus reducing its speed, albeit very slightly. Therefore, it is best to avoid extreme toe-in values. Rear suspension arm toe angle (rear suspension arm (rear triangle) toe angle): The rear toe angle can be adjusted using brackets mounted on the chassis plate. The toe angle can be changed from -4 degrees (negative toe) to 0 degrees (neutral) in 0.5-degree increments. Increasing the rear toe angle (a larger negative value) will increase the car's tendency to understeer. This will also reduce the chances of losing rear traction, giving you more stability when accelerating and braking out of corners. Increasing the rear toe will also help the car's straight-line stability, so if your car is a bit unstable on straights, try increasing the rear toe value. However, this comes at the expense of top speed and steering response. Positive toe (toe out) is rarely used and is best avoided. Rear Upper Arm Anti-Squat Angle : Squat is the tendency of the rear suspension to rise or lower during acceleration due to the suspension geometry itself. Anti-squat geometry works against the normal forces of weight shift during acceleration and braking. Anti-squat is determined by the angle of the upper rear suspension arms relative to the chassis plane, viewed from the side of the car. In a horizontal position, the anti-squat is 0 degrees, and there is no anti-squat effect. The maximum anti-dive angle is 4 degrees, at which point the lifting and lowering effects are at their maximum. Adding anti-squat will cause the car to squat less during acceleration. This will increase straight-line traction. However, it will also make your car less responsive when accelerating out of corners and more unstable when braking in a corner. Less anti-wheelie will produce the opposite effect: slightly less forward traction, more stability when entering corners and better handling on bumpy sections. Spring Preload: By adjusting the spring preload, you control your car's ride height. Ride height is the distance between the bottom of the chassis and the track surface when the car is stationary. Ride height is another often overlooked tuning parameter. Typically, 1:8 scale buggies are set up with a ride height between 25 and 30 millimeters. Generally, a lower ride height will provide less traction and be less prone to rolling over, while a higher ride height will offer more traction, but the car is more likely to tip over. A lower car performs better on smooth, fast tracks, while a higher car is preferable on tracks with many jumps or a bumpy surface. The difference between the front and rear ride height is also a factor to consider. A lower front ride height and a higher rear ride height can give the car more directional control. Conversely, a higher front ride height and a lower rear ride height will make the car even more stable, as this softens the steering. This can also allow the car to handle bumps and jumps more consistently. Wheelbase and Balance Rear Hub Spacing: You can modify your car's wheelbase by adding spacers between the rear hub and the rear suspension arm. This has a slight effect on your car's balance. A longer wheelbase makes the car a bit more forgiving and should be preferred on a fast, wide track. A shorter wheelbase is generally a bit better on twisty tracks. Weight distribution: Adjusting the front-to-rear weight distribution allows you to put more weight on either the front or rear wheels, increasing the amount of traction those wheels have. Obviously, this also affects the car's balance in the air. Shifting the weight distribution forward will increase front-end traction, resulting in better steering response, improved handling, and reduced understeer. You'll lose some traction when accelerating out of corners (if the car becomes too sensitive, you can try adjusting the caster angle or exponential setting on your radio or in the control options). Shifting the weight distribution rearward will increase traction on the rear tires, allowing for higher corner exit speeds, but you'll lose some steering responsiveness. If your car tends to oversteer in corners, try shifting the weight distribution further rearward, which will help keep the rear of the car planted on the track. The downside is that when the rear of the car loses traction, it will do so more pronouncedly. Driveline (Transmission) Transmission You can change the pinion and crown gear to modify acceleration and top speed. Choosing the right gear ratio depends on the engine configuration, the clutch, and especially the track layout. Generally, it's a compromise between good acceleration in tight corners and top speed on the straights. Selecting the correct gear ratio is important for smooth driving with enough power coming out of corners to overtake. A gear ratio that's too low can make the car unstable. The gear ratio also affects the car's behavior in the air when you're trying to keep it balanced. Spur Gear (crown): Choosing a smaller sprocket (main gear) will reduce acceleration and increase top speed. A larger sprocket will increase acceleration and reduce top speed. Pinion (pinion): Choosing a larger sprocket will increase top speed and reduce acceleration. A smaller sprocket will reduce top speed and increase acceleration. Brake setting Drag Brake: Drag brake is a small amount of braking force that remains even after you release the throttle. Applying a little drag brake gives the car a bit more steering response when entering a corner with the throttle released, without having to use the brakes. Keep in mind that drag brake also affects how your car reacts when you use the brakes while the car is in the air. Differentials: This buggy chassis is equipped with 2 or 3 oil-filled or viscous gear differentials. You can adjust the limited-slip or locking setting of each differential by changing the oil. Limited-slip or locking is the torque that develops due to the difference in speed between the two output shafts of the differential. This torque is distributed from one output shaft to the other if one of the shafts loses traction. In the case of front and rear differentials, the output shafts drive the left and right wheels, respectively. In the case of the center differential, the output shafts drive either the front or rear differential. A fully open differential has only gear friction as torque or resistance and distributes 50% to each output shaft when both wheels have maximum traction. As soon as one wheel loses traction, the resistance torque is transferred to the other wheel. The more a differential is locked, the more torque will be distributed to the other shaft by adjusting the differentials. Select Differential oil (centistokes): Rear (CST Rear Differential): Rear differential settings vary the most between drivers. This is because the rear differential has a significant impact on rear-wheel traction, and each driver's driving style determines which oil should be used. Choosing the right rear differential oil for your driving style is crucial; otherwise, you risk unbalancing your car. A thicker oil will make the differential stiffer and provide more rear-wheel traction, but you might lose lateral grip. Using a thinner oil will have the opposite effect. Center (CST central differential): Using a thicker oil in the center differential allows the car to accelerate much faster, but it can make driving on bumpy and slippery tracks more difficult. However, this can be a bit confusing because if the track is soft and very bumpy, a thicker center differential can actually help the car jump over the crests of the bumps, making it feel better and faster. But most of the time, thinner center differential oils are used for very rough tracks. A thicker center differential oil will also make steering easier when accelerating, as the rear of the car will be able to slide when you press the accelerator. Front (CST Front Differential): Using a thicker oil will make the car turn more when you accelerate out of a corner, and it will accelerate more quickly. The car will turn less on corner entry because the steering response will be reduced. It will feel more stable and may be easier to drive on bumpy tracks. If the car feels unstable and inconsistent on a rough track, a good idea is to try a thicker front differential oil. A thinner front differential oil will have the opposite effect: less steering response under acceleration, more steering response off acceleration, and less stability. Electrics (Electricity) ESC/Throttle setting (Electronic Speed ​​Controller (ESC) and acceleration adjustment) Throttle Launch (% off max) (Torque Launch): With the acceleration control, you control the amount of power sent when you press the accelerator button. This subtle adjustment can be used to fine-tune your controller's (radio) response during acceleration. Throttle Launch Time (msec) (millisecond): The throttle launch time control allows you to adjust how long the throttle's launch power is applied when you first use it. This subtle adjustment can be used to fine-tune your controller's response during acceleration. Throttle Limit (% of max throttle): This is the percentage of maximum possible throttle that the electronic speed control (ESC) can provide. Increasing this value will improve the car's speed, but at the expense of running time, as it will use more current. Punch setting (punch adjustment): The "Punch" settings control the amount of amps you allow the speed controller to supply to the motor. This affects acceleration. If you experience excessive wheel spin during acceleration, you might want to use a softer "Punch" setting. In particular, 1:12 on-road and 1:10 off-road electric cars can be sensitive to the "Punch" setting depending on the track surface and grip. ESC/Brake setting (Electronic Speed ​​Controller (ESC) and brake setting) Initial Brake (% of total brake) (Initial brake): The amount of braking applied with the first brake signal from the transmitter (radio). Increasing this setting starts the braking at a stronger/higher level. Initial Brake Time (msec): Time in milliseconds after the first braking action at which braking will begin. Decrease the time for faster braking, increase the time for slower braking. Drag Brake (% of total brake) (Drag Brake) (% of total braking): The amount of braking applied when the transmitter (radio) is in neutral. Also known as coasting brake. Increasing this setting slows the engine down more without pushing the transmitter (radio) trigger in the direction of braking. Total Brake (% of Max Brake) (Total Brake) (% max braking): Here, you adjust the total amount of brake you want to use when you apply full braking on your controller. 1:10 scale electric cars apply brakes to all four wheels, and you can usually set a higher percentage of total braking force. 1:12 scale electric cars only have brakes on the rear axle and are more sensitive to the maximum brake setting. Too much braking force will cause the car to lose traction when braking. Reverse setting (reverse gear adjustment): Reverse Delay (time before reverse kicks in) The amount of time before reverse engages when the brake is fully applied. This setting can be used to virtually disable the speed controller's reverse function, which can be useful in the final main heats where your starting position is slightly tilted, potentially causing your car to move off course and incur a false start penalty. At a maximum of 10,000 milliseconds, it will take 10 seconds for reverse to engage. You can also disable reverse gear completely. Reverse ON/OFF: Whether reverse gear is engaged or not Shocks & ARB (Shock absorbers and anti-roll bar) Ride height: Ground clearance: distance between the bottom of the chassis and the track (suspension in neutral position) Camber angle: Camber angle: vertical angle of the wheel (suspension in neutral position) Lower arm: Angle of the lower arm: angle of the lower arm (suspension in neutral position) Shock absorbers and springs: Shock absorbers and springs play a crucial role in your car's handling. Shock absorbers absorb all the forces transmitted to the chassis from the wheels, as well as the forces acting on the chassis itself, such as roll and pitch forces due to cornering, acceleration, and braking. Springs resist these forces, while shock absorber oil dampens them. The shock absorber springs and oil must be balanced with the load on the wheels and other forces to maintain maximum contact between the wheels and the road surface. Softer shock absorbers and springs allow for more movement and therefore require more time to stabilize, making the car slower to react. Softer shock absorbers and springs are generally used on very bumpy tracks with low grip. Stiffer shock absorbers and springs react more quickly, making the car more responsive. Stiffer shock absorbers and springs are generally used on tracks with less bumpy surfaces and better grip. Oil viscosity: The viscosity of oil is also called the weight of the oil. Viscosity is measured in centistokes. The lower the number, the lighter or thinner the oil. Front shock absorbers: a lighter oil will reduce cornering grip and increase steering response in corners. A heavier oil will produce the opposite effect. Rear shock absorbers: a lighter oil will increase rear grip but make the car less responsive. A heavier oil will produce the opposite effect. Holes: The piston's resistance is controlled by the number of holes in the piston. The more holes there are, the less resistance there is. The effect of the number of holes in the piston is very similar to that of different oil weights (viscosity). Fewer holes mean more resistance and damping. More holes mean less resistance and less damping. Upper Shock Position: The upper position of the shock absorber is adjusted on the shock absorber mount. This controls the shock absorber's angle. A steeper angle with the lower suspension arm makes the shock absorber stiffer, while a shallower angle has the opposite effect. At the front, slanting the shock absorber downwards will make it softer (when the car leans) and increase steering response, but decrease damping. Slanting the front shock absorber straightens it will make it stiffer (when the car leans) and decrease steering response, but increase damping. At the rear, straightening the shock absorber tip will decrease traction (or increase steering response), but increase damping. Slanting the rear shock absorber downwards will increase traction, but decrease damping. As a general rule, the more traction the track has, the more you can adjust the shock absorbers. Lower Shock Position: The lower position of the shock absorber affects the shock absorber's stroke. The outer position increases the shock absorber's stroke and action, while the inner position reduces the shock absorber's stroke and action. The lower position also affects the angle of the shock absorber. Spring Type: The springs support the weight of the car and any additional forces transmitted to the chassis by the tires. Lighter springs allow more suspension movement under a given load, while stiffer springs do the opposite. Shock absorber spring stiffness is measured in N/mm and lb/in, and we offer a range of springs comparable to the most commonly used springs. The spring color does not change when you choose a different spring. In general, stiffer springs make your car react more quickly and reduce body roll, but they don't work well on bumpy tracks. Stiffer springs are preferable on smooth or high-grip tracks. Softer springs are better on slippery or bumpy tracks. Generally, you'll use stiffer springs in the front than in the rear. Softer springs make the car less responsive when entering corners, while stiffer springs do the opposite. Spring Pre-load: By adjusting the spring preload, you control your car's ride height. Ride height is the distance between the bottom of the chassis and the track surface when the car is at rest. Generally, 1:8 scale buggies are set up with a ride height between 25 and 30 mm. As a rule, a lower ride height provides less grip and makes the car less prone to rolling over, while a higher ride height offers more grip but makes the car more likely to tip over. A lower car is better suited to smooth, fast tracks, while a higher car is better for tracks with many jumps or a bumpy surface. The difference between the front and rear ride height is also a factor to consider. A lower front and higher rear ride height can give the car more steering response. A higher front and lower rear ride height will make the car even more stable, smoothing out the steering. This can also allow the car to handle bumps and jumps more consistently. Anti-roll Bar: Anti-roll bars are also called stabilizer bars. They resist the chassis's tendency to roll. They do this by redistributing some of the tire load from the outside wheel to the inside wheel. Because the amount of grip relative to a tire's load is not linear, the use of anti-roll bars reduces overall grip. However, they contribute to the chassis's responsiveness to body roll. The chassis reacts more quickly to steering inputs because, without them, it would simply take longer for the chassis to tilt, allowing the shock absorbers to build up resistance and redistribute the load to the outside tires. Stiffer anti-roll bars reduce traction on the axle they're mounted on, thus altering the car's balance. A stiffer rear anti-roll bar reduces rear-end traction and increases steering response. Softer front anti-roll bars reduce steering response and make the car more stable and easier to drive. Anti-Roll Bar Selection (Anti-roll bar choice): Anti-roll bars are available in several thicknesses, ranging from 2.2 mm to 3.7 mm. Thicker anti-roll bars are stiffer and generally make the car more responsive, but they can also make it slightly less agile. Suspension (Suspension) SUSPENSION SETTINGS (at rest) Driving height: distance between the bottom of the chassis and the track (suspension in neutral position) Camber angle: vertical angle of the wheel (suspension in neutral position) Lowering: angle of the lower arm (suspension in neutral position) Suspension: In this setup window, you can adjust suspension geometry such as camber, track width, and bump stops. Since any changes to these settings will affect ride height, you may need to adjust the spring preload to bring the ride height back to your desired level. You can change the roll centers by adjusting the inner position of the upper control arm (rear only) and the outer positions of the upper control arm link (front and rear). In general, longer links make the car more stable, provide more traction, and even improve front-end grip. Positioning the links as close as possible to the shock towers makes the car more stable. Raising the link on the tower has a similar effect to lengthening it, providing more traction. Shorter suspension travel makes a car more responsive, allowing it to line up better and faster when exiting a corner. This can give the impression of better grip, and ultimately, it does, but it's more inconsistent. The car will have plenty of grip up to a certain point, then it will suddenly lose grip, spin its wheels, or exhibit similar behavior. Upper Arm Link (upper arm length) With this setting, you can adjust the camber angle of the wheels. Lengthening them creates "positive" camber, shortening them creates "negative" camber. The camber values ​​displayed at the top of this window show the camber angles as if the car were equipped with 11-inch tires. After modifying any of the other suspension settings, you must check the camber angle and return it to the correct values ​​by lengthening or shortening the upper arm or upper link. More negative camber reduces traction and makes the car less prone to rolling over due to lack of grip. Less negative camber has the opposite effect. Generally, adjust between -2 and -5 degrees, with similar front and rear camber or slightly more pronounced at the rear. Upper arm/link inner position (a) (inner position of the upper arm/link (a) In general, a longer front arm will make the car more stable and provide more traction. A shorter arm will make it react and change direction more quickly. Using the lower position raises the roll center and increases traction, which can cause oversteer or lack of steering under acceleration (when accelerating). Upper arm/link outer position (b) In general, a longer front arm will make the car more stable and provide more traction. A shorter arm will make it react and change direction more quickly. Using the upper position at the rear raises the roll center and decreases traction, which can cause additional steering under acceleration (when accelerating). Downstop Adjusting the compression stops limits the distance the suspension can descend when the car is lifted or in the air. This is also called "dropping". In general, less droop reduces body roll. Less droop at the rear will free up the rear end a bit more, providing better steering response. More droop at the front is good for improved steering response under acceleration. It's generally necessary to increase droop on bumpy tracks and reduce it on high-grip surfaces, such as carpet. Shock Absorbers Spring Suspension In this configuration window, you can adjust the suspension geometry, such as camber, track width, and bump stops. Since any changes to these settings will affect the ride height, you may need to adjust the spring preload or diameter to return the ride height to the desired location. You can also modify the roll centers by clicking on the suspension arm attachment point circles. You can change the shock absorber angle by clicking on the shock absorber mounting point circles. Spring Preload By adjusting the spring preload, you can adjust the ride height of your car. Ride height is the distance between the bottom of the chassis and the track surface when the car is at rest. Typically, 1:8 scale buggies are set up with a ride height between 25 and 30 mm. Generally, a lower ride height provides less traction and is less prone to tipping over, while a higher ride height offers more traction but makes the car more susceptible to tipping. A low-profile car performs better on smooth, fast tracks, while a higher-profile car is better on tracks with numerous jumps or a bumpy surface. The difference between the front and rear ride height is also a factor to consider. A lower front ride height and a higher rear ride height can give the car more directional control. A higher front ride height and a lower rear ride height will make the car even more stable by smoothing out the steering. This can also improve the car's ability to handle bumps and jumps more consistently.